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Praise for ProPride 3P

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  • Praise for ProPride 3P

    Wanted to offer my experience with the Pro-Pride 3P.

    My truck: 2016 F-150 with a 3.5 L Eco Boost, 3.55 rear end, max towing package, 7,000 lbs GVWR and a 145 inch wheel base. It has a curb weight of 4890 lb, towing capacity of 11,600 lb and a GCWR of 16,900. Truck is stock other than Air Lift ride control air bags.

    My trailer: 2017 Jayco 338 RETS. Dry weight 9130 lb. GVWR 11250. 40 ft from tongue to bumper. 12 ft high.

    When I bought the trailer I knew I would be pushing my truck to the maximum capabilities. I wasn't concerned about the weigh as one search of You Tube will show videos of similar trucks pulling 14k loads up steep grades without difficulty. My concern of trailer sway. With the trailer outweighing the truck better than 2:1 when fully loaded, the large surface area inherent in a TT and my short wheel base I knew sway could be a huge issue.

    After a lot of research and reading the endless debates on forums I decided the 3P was right for me. I placed my order and had boxes on my door step in just a few days.

    From this point it was a comedy of errors on my part. Being mechanically inclined I casually read the directions and got to work. Install was a breeze with simple hand tools (though I did have to borrow a torque wrench).

    (Below assumes you have a working knowledge of the hitch components)

    Because I am pushing my truck to capacity I had to apply a lot of force to the weight distribution bars to distribute weight properly. Because I had installed my stinger level with the ground the force of the WD bars caused the pivoting portion of the hitch (hitch head from here on out) to be nose down. I did not notice this detail before my first test drive.

    Thinking I was good to go I took the truck and trailer for a drive. The sway was HORRIBLE. Because the hitch head was not level with the ground it wanted to ride at either extreme of its range of motion. When driving the force of the truck's forward motion kept the hitch head in the proper place but if a gust of wind came the hitch head would move to one side then when pulled back to the center would over compensate to the opposite side because it wasn't level. This had a pendulum like effect and made the truck nearly undriveable. Additionally when turning at low speeds I heard a loud clunking coming from the hitch. (More on this later.)

    I got home from the first drive thinking the 3P was utter crap and my wife was going to kill me when I told her we needed to buy a diesel pick up. However I remembered from all the forum reading I had done all the praise heaped on Shawn at ProPride for his customer service. I called, left a message and had a call back in 20 minutes. He immediately knew what the issue was and said I needed to lower the angle of my stinger so that once I applied force with the WD bars the hitch head would be level.

    I did as instructed and ran into my second problem. When coupling the truck to the trailer the hitch head must be at the same angle as the stinger. To accomplish this you raise or lower the WD bars to achieve the proper hitch head angle. In my case this was not possible. My trailer has a 6 inch frame and the ball coupler is mounted to the bottom of the frame so even using the top hole of the linkage bars and lowering the jacks all the way down I was unable to get the proper angle to hook up. I disconnected the WD bars from the linkage bars and was able to get the proper angle for coupling by manually manipulating them. I took another test drive with the hitch head riding level and all trailer sway was completely eliminated. However I still had the clunking noise coming from the hitch when making low speed turns.

    After getting home from test drive two I turned my attention to the clunking. This was when I noticed I had installed the yoke upside down. (Yes, I'm an idiot) The hitch head would knock against the upside down yoke when making turns. The damage to the yoke was significant. Fortunately the hitch head suffered only cosmetic damage. By this point it was late in the day so rather than call I emailed Shawn. I told him about my problems coupling the truck and trailer as well as my yoke damage. Shawn replied early the next day. He said he would make longer linkage bars to help me get the proper angle while coupling and would send out new yoke arms. He charged me only his cost for these pieces and I was thrilled.

    Again the parts arrived in a few days. I installed them and was able to hook up the truck and trailer without difficulty. There was one final piece of drama when my WD jack broke. It would turn freely without raising or lowering. A final call to Shawn (which he answered immediately) and he told me I sheared a pin in the jack. Turns out using an impact gun to raise the jack is a bad idea. One trip to Lowe's and 59

  • #2
    thanks for the positive report .... no surprise at the way your report Sean backing the 3P .... every since we installed one on our daughter's camper, its been smooth sailing ...
    '06 SunnyBrook Titan 34BWKS
    '07 Freightliner Sportchassis
    '11 Chevy Silverado 1500
    '16 Camaro RS


    • #3
      Howdy neighbor. Thanks for your post on this topic Jhram. I have a similar truck / trailer arrangement and the sway problem is almost unbearable as-is. The first fairly long trip I recently took (800 mi r/t) was a white knuckle, buttpucker experience. 18 wheelers whizzing by me from behind on the interstate would almost jerk the steering wheel out of my hand. I have to do something and need some guidance.

      My truck: 2015 F-150XLT with a 3.5 L Eco Boost, 3.15 rear end, trailer towing package, 6800lbs GVWR package, and a 145 inch wheel base. It has a curb weight of 4700 lb, towing capacity of 10,700 lb. Truck is stock.

      My new trailer: 2016 Jayco 27RBOK. Dry weight 6000 lb. GVWR 7750, 31.5 ft from tongue to bumper. 11 ft high (including AC). 715 lb tongue weight. Current WD hitch is a Centerline by Husky. (sold to me by the Jayco dealer where I bought the trailer)

      First...I do not have any air bags on the rear of the truck and the truck does squat considerably when hooking up the trailer w/o WD hitch so I know I need some kind of extra support in the rear of the truck. Question is ...what kind of support do I get? Extra springs? Air Bags?. I see Air Lift brand mentioned on the chat session a lot. And they sell two types of air products for my truck. Which one would be best? Will the extra support in the rear of the truck help the sway problem without shelling out the extra $$$ for the Pro-Pride hitch?

      Secondly... Since we have similar truck/trailer arrangements, I would be interested in an update from Jhram on your experience since your last post in January getting the Pro-Pride P3 installed properly and whether it has improved the sway problem.

      Thanks in advance to all who may weigh in on this.

      Dennis :cheers:
      Dennis & Donna, Flower Mound, TX
      2006 Toyota Tundra 1/2T, 2003 27' Pioneer BP


      • #4
        welcome to our forum .... our daughter tows her 30' Jayco Eagle with our 2011 Silverado 1500 .... no air bags, completely stock suspension .... one tow with a conventional hitch was all it took to convince us to install a ProPride .... since installing it 8 years ago, ZERO sway issues .... based on our rather extensive experience, we recommend the ProPride hitch with absolutely zero reservations
        '06 SunnyBrook Titan 34BWKS
        '07 Freightliner Sportchassis
        '11 Chevy Silverado 1500
        '16 Camaro RS


        • #5
          Dwhite, we are in our 9th year of towing with our 3P hitch and could not be happier with it. We bought it when towing a 28' trailer with a Toyota Sequoia. Our current trailer is 32' and our tow vehicle is a 2013 F-150, 3.5L EcoBoost, 3.73:1 final drive, 157" wheelbase, 7700 lb GVWR.

          As for truck squat, be aware that extra springs or airbags will correct the appearance of squat but will do nothing... zilch, nada, zero... to redistribute tongue weight. That's what a WDH is for. I don't think they're going to help with sway at all... a properly loaded trailer with 12 to 15% of its actual* weight on the tongue and a properly configured WDH are the most important factors.

          As for "extra $$$" for the ProPride hitch... it pales in comparison to the cost of your truck and trailer and especially the people who ride with you, on whose lives no price could ever be put. And a comfortable and relaxing towing experience is the icing on the cake.

          *Not the GVWR and not the fantasy "dry weight"... you'll have to weigh your trailer, loaded for camping (try a CAT scale), to get this number.
          Last edited by Restcure; 06-29-2017, 08:43 PM.


          • #6
            DWhite, check your messages.
            Ron Norton
            Katy, TX
            2020 Ram Longhorn 2500 w/Cummins
            2019 Jayco Eagle 272 RBOK
            1989 Avion 34V


            • #7
              Over on the Jayco owners forum the Pro Pride hitch gets high marks from everyone that has bought one. I read of the excellent customer service Sean continuously provides to those who have some snag or obstacle in the installation. Most are self installed.

              They are not for every trailer but if is long enough and heavy enough, it is the best thing available.
              2011 Jayco Eagle 351RLTS, MorRyde hitchpin
              2017 F350 Lariat PSD CC,SB,SRW, 3.55, FX4, LineX
              B&W Turnover
              Andersen 3220 Ultimate
              Elle and BJ - Da Pups

              In the past:
              97 27RKFS SB
              04 30RKFS SB Titan

              "Don't let yesterday take up to much of your today." Will Rogers


              • #8
                I own a Sunnybrook 28 foot travel trailer that I tow with a 2003 Ford F250 Diesel.
                The truck packed for travel weighs about 8,000 pounds and is quite stable. However, when traveling with the trailer with a gross combined weight of about 16,000 pounds using a Reese Dual Cam Sway control hitch with 1200 pound weight distribution/cam bars, the system was never quite stable when being passed by big rigs on the interstate.

                In 2006 I made the decision to buy a Hensley Arrow hitch which was a lot of money to put into a hitch. After installing and learning how to adjust the hitch, the next big hurdle was learning to hitch up. Well that took a few tries, but I worked out a system where I can un-hitch and re-hitch at least a 40 degree angle from straight back. The Hensley Arrow was the first generation of the style hitch that Pro Pride sells. I believe that the Pro Pride hitch is easier to hitch although I have never seen one, my engineering background leads me to that conclusion from the many photos I've examined on this forum.

                Traveling the interstate as no longer a white knuckle affair. The bow wave of air from a big rig on the interstate will try to push the whole rig sideways somewhat but that is easily controlled. However when the the trailer takes control, you have little chance of regaining control with a tow vehicle that weighs much less than the trailer!

                I recall one trip driving north from Lubbock Texas in late February. There was a sustained wind from the west at 25 to 30 miles per hour with persistent gusts probably near 40 MPH. I can assure you that I was very confident and in full control of the truck and trailer for some 100 or more miles with the Hensley hitch. Had I still been using the Reese hitch, I would have parked in Lubbock and extended our trip home one more day.

                My advice to you is if you are serious about doing much travel with your setup, buy the Pro Pride and consider it an investment in your family's safety.

                I have towed about 30,000 miles with the Hensley hitch from Alaska to the Texas gulf, Oregon coast, New Mexico, Arizona, Southern Utah, Washington, Nevada and places in Colorado that most of the readers of this forum wouldn't even attempt.
                Last edited by ColoradoNative; 06-30-2017, 06:22 PM.

                LaPorte, Colorado
                2003 F250 Superduty 6.0 Diesel, Auto - 2004 Sunnybrook Solanta 2816 - 2004 Brakesmart - 2006 Hensley Arrow

                To be Old and Wise, You Must First be Young and Stupid!

                Don't do something permanently stupid just because you're temporarily upset!


                • #9
                  Thanks to everyone for the advice. I think the message is clear what I need to do. I appreciate the feedback and sage advice from those who have direct experience with the sway I have been experiencing. Thanks again.
                  Dennis :cheers:
                  Dennis & Donna, Flower Mound, TX
                  2006 Toyota Tundra 1/2T, 2003 27' Pioneer BP
                  TEXAS IS A STATE OF MIND